Climbing in Leonidio, Greece’s Winter Hotspot

Updated January, 2025

It was a spur of the moment decision, the likes of those that lead to unforgettable adventures. One evening, over a few drinks, four pals decided to go climbing in Leonidio for a whole month; in a van that was not converted for sleeping and living in it; with two tents, too. There was no clear plan. In fact, we hardly knew any details for our trip – where to stay, how much we’d spend, where we’d climb, how it’d feel. It was pure dirtbagging. And we excelled at it.

We said YES to adventure. One week later we all hopped in an old van and headed for Greece. All we knew was that we wanted to reach Leonidio; at some point. Simple, right? Well, it was harder to get there than we’d though, as you’ll soon see if you keep reading.

That’s not all you’ll find. Thinking of heading to Leonidio to climb, the dirtbagging way or any old way? I’ve put together this comprehensive guide for climbing in Leonidio to help you plan an epic trip.

The drive to Leonidio & climbing in Nafplio

At the Romania-Bulgaria border, some of the paperwork for the car was not in order and they just wouldn’t let us go through. So, we had to return home the same day. It seemed as though the adventure ended as soon as it began.

Not quite…   

The very next day, we hopped in a different van. We checked the papers, everything looked okay. So we left for Greece, again, hoping that we’d get it right the second time around.

We crossed the border, drove across Bulgaria, and then crossed the Bulgaria-Greece border. It was the middle of the night when we entered Greece and we knew we desperately needed some sleep, so we exited the highway and stopped by the sea. After we hung our hammocks under the roof of a gazebo perched on a rocky headland, we managed to get a few hours of sleep despite the restless Aegean Sea.

Our next stop was Nafplio, one of the most impressive ancient cities in the eastern Peloponnese. We were planning to sleep on the beach and also climb there for a bit. The drive there was simply striking – by the Aegean Sea, through highlands, and past Athens.

When we reached Nafplio, it was already dark. And surprise! The brakes of the van cave in. It was an adventure to get down to the beach. We managed to do it in the end, driving in reverse, and we parked the van next to the sandy Karathona Beach, on the grass, and camped for the night.

We spent two days in Nafplio climbing, swimming, and changing the brakes for the van. We climbed at Neraki Bay sector, right next to the promenade, above the Aegean Sea. It is an impressive location, with 40+ sport climbing routes on reddish limestone, from 5 to 8a.

With new brakes for the van, we left Nafplio for Leonidio. It was yet another scenic drive by the sea, past olive groves, beaches, fishing boats, and traditional villages.

Leonidio in a nutshell

On the east coast of the Peloponnese, in Arkadia, the picturesque Greek village of Leonidio lies at the mouth of the Dafnon River Gorge, some 4 km from the Myrtoan Sea. Its terracotta roofs are stacked in perfect imperfection, olive and citrus trees in between, all dominated by the massive reddish crag of Kokkinovrachos, which actually means “red rock” in Greek.

Leonidio extends all the way to the sea. It has a traditional fishing port – Plaka – with some accommodation options, restaurants, and a nice, protected pebble beach. There are a few houses along the main beach, Lakkos, a long pebble beach that extends for 3 kilometers.

There are olive groves on the steep, rocky slopes above the village. On the flat piece of land between Leonidio and the sea, there are orange groves, greenhouses, and veggie crops.

On Mondays, there’s a farmer’s market in the center of Leonidio, next to the bridge in front of the iconic blue clock tower. The prices are reasonable, some produce is cheaper than in the supermarkets, so you’ll see a lot of climbers making provisions for the week. In winter, you’ll find honey, olive oil, fresh eggs, mountain tea, herbal tea, veggies (tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, and other greens are in season), fruits (oranges, apples), and fresh fish.

You can find pretty much all you need in Leonidio. There are three climbing shops, three well-stocked supermarkets (plus some smaller markets on the narrow streets in the town center), souvenir shops, bakeries, grocery stores, butcher shop, cheesemonger, hardware stores, taverns, cafés, and bars.

The climbing vibes

An international crowd of climbers gathers at the crags, all bound by the same desires – to escape winter and to climb as much as possible. In the evening, the town of Leonidio comes to life as climbers hit the taverns and bars for a filling Greek dinner, a beer, or a glass of local wine. Pánjika and Kasseta are two of the favorite hangouts for climbers.

Late autumn and the winter holidays are the busiest time of year in Leonidio. There are climbers everywhere, the campsite fills up, the accommodations are almost full, the taverns and bars are packed, and the town is bustling.

Pánjika Cooperative, a non-profit based in Leonidio, who also own the above-mentioned bar, a climbing shop, and a few other small businesses, is behind the detailed guidebook for Leonidio. They usually print a new edition each season.

The guidebook includes Leonidio, Kyparissi, Vlychada, and more. You can find it for sale at the climbing stores, as well as at some other shops in town.

What’s the climbing like in Leonidio?

Climbing in Leonidio gained a lot of popularity in recent years. It is a preferred winter getaway, not only for European climbers, and with good reason – tons of sport climbing routes on high quality limestone, small and picturesque pebble beaches, seafood, Mediterranean cuisine, sunshine, and a laidback lifestyle all add to its charm, making it simply irresistible.

The crags are scattered above town and on the winding Dafnon River valley. Some can be reached on foot from town, others from the steep and winding road to Vaskina, there are crags closer to the sea, as well as along the valley, some of them as high as 800 meters in altitude.

The amount of climbing in Leonidio is impressive, if not overwhelming. There are over 2,500 routes, from 4 to 9a+, as well as open projects. This number keeps growing each year. The biggest chunk of the routes is in the 6a to 7b range, making it a fantastic playground for all levels. It’s great for beginners, for those looking for mid-grades, those who want to get some mileage, and for those who like to fight “a muerte”.

Leonidio is renowned for its reddish limestone and full range of styles and difficulties. There are tufas to hug, pockets to cut loose in style, vertical, steep, roofs, crimpy, techy, slab, you name it!

Some sectors and certain routes get a lot of traffic. Therefore, in some places, the rock has become rather polished. Luckily, the whole area continues to grow, new sectors are added and new lines bolted. Plus, there are crags farther up the valley or higher on the plateau above Leonidio, where you can find stellar routes without the queues. All in all, the longer the drive and the more strenuous the approach, the higher the chances of being by yourself.

The most famous climbing sectors in Leonidio

Photo by Vali Aldea

Oh boy, where to start? There are over 100 sectors and counting, offering everything from slabby to steep, bouldery to endurance, tufa fests to crimpy journeys, broccoli, huecos, stalactites, blobs, and more.

There are, of course, a few emblematic sectors in Leonidio where everyone wants to climb. Here are a few of them:

On the valley, some 15 kilometers from town towards Kosmas, Elona is a stunning tufa-ridden crag that will test your kneebaring skills, located next to the Elona Monastery. A bit farther, at 800 meters elevation and in the shade, Nifada offers several styles, from steep tufa climbing to pocket-pulling and even some Frankenjura-style routes, some quite short and some longer and pumpy.

On a secondary valley, 14 kilometers from Leonidio towards Paleochori, La Maison des Chevres has a bunch of iconic routes in a bunch of different styles. Next to it, there are the often empty Le Château Polonais and Le Jardin Publique, with some challenging crimpy vertical climbing. A bit higher on the same valley, Neanderthal offers some aesthetic lines without the crowds, while the crag itself is in a peaceful, remote location.

Skiadhianiko is a favorite for low grades and for mixed groups of climbers, since it has a long gray slab with plenty of routes in the 5’s and 6’s, as well as a few steeper and more challenging lines in the upper sector.

Photo by Vali Aldea

Limeri is another crowd favorite thanks to its very short approach (a few minutes) and variety of styles and grades, from single tufa lines to long overhangs, techy vertical, and bouldery cruxes. Close to it, Kamares has a few popular routes on a cool-featured wall, as well as a few that don’t get that much traffic.

H.A.D.A. is tucked away on a valley, hidden from sight, and is often on climbers’ top of the list. It offers a variety of routes in the 6’s, 7’s, and 8’s, short and long, steep and vertical, with many different features, from underlings to edges, flakes, and tufas.

Above town, close to the road to Vaskina, Twin Caves is an often busy sector thanks to its eye-catching hard lines in the cave, as well as its variety of styles and grades, which makes it suitable for mixed groups, too.

For vertical and slab lovers, Hot Rock offers some techy and crimpy climbing. For lower grades, dozens of them, right next to each other and with a pleasant place for belaying, Kokkinovrachos Central and Kokkinovrachos Hospital are a paradise for 5’s and 6’s. And you can walk to them directly from town.

Also above town and possible to reach without a car, Cemetery Gates gets quite a lot of traffic on cloudy days, since it offers a variety of styles and grades on high-quality limestone. Olympos is neatly perched above Leonidio and offers tufa and pocket climbing of various lengths and angles. Next to it, Blasphemia is steep, burly, fingery, and bouldery.

An otherwordly tufa, blob, and pocket-ridden reddish wall, Mars is one of the most stunning crags in Leonidio, filled with aesthetic lines, short and long, across a variety of difficulties.

Further up the path from Mars, but in fact easier to reach from the plateau above, the massive wall at Jupiter is the mecca of long vertical climbing in Leonidio. Most routes here are 40 to 50 meters long, mostly in the 6’s and 7’s, flowy and spectacular, and always in the shade.

More towards the sea and south-facing, Cave of Panagia has tufas, stalactites, and other outstanding features, on long routes with a great view. Theó’s Cave is another favorite, especially on a cloudy or cold day, with a few impressive long lines and some bouldery steep routes as well. Sàbaton is very popular thanks to its short approach, shade, numerous short routes in the 6’s, and spectacular views of the sea.

This is just naming a few. Do keep in mind that the next sector is never too far if it’s too busy and you might just be surprised with what you find. Yes, there are uncrowded crags, unpolished routes, and picturesque, quiet sectors, but I’ll leave you to discover those yourself.

What is the best time to climb in Leonidio?

The best time to climb in Leonidio is between November and April. That said, some of the sectors at higher altitudes and in the shade may be climbable outside these months, too.

While Leonidio is dubbed a sunny winter getaway for Europeans, you should not take that for granted. The weather can be quite unpredictable in winter, and we discovered that the forecast doesn’t always nail it.

During our first trip, it was snowing at the sectors higher up on the valley in December. In January, we were basking in the sun at 20 degrees Celsius. Temps can drop, it can be windy, and there can also be crazy amounts of precipitation. During our second trip to Leonidio, it rained for five days straight. On our third trip, it rained every three days. Nevertheless, we were  able to climb as the rock dried fast and only a few sectors/routes remained wet, so I really can’t complain.

Bad weather doesn’t last long. This is Greece, remember?

Most of Leonidio tends to dry out very fast after rainfall, but some tufas can get wet (and stay wet) after long periods of rain.

The crags are located from almost sea level all the way to 900 meters elevation. So, choosing where you want to climb depends on the weather and conditions. There are sectors that are in the sun all day – perfect for colder days. And there are some at a higher elevation, partly in shade and some that get zero sun, which are good for warmer days, especially in autumn.

What to pack

Photo by corina.dorina

It’s best to bring an 80-meter rope if you plan to climb at many different sectors. While the average length is probably around 25 meters, there are sectors with 40-meter routes (or even longer), and there can be the occasionally long and eye-catching route here and there.

Bring 25+ quickdraws to be on the safe side.

In terms of climbing equipment, if you discover that you’re missing something, the climbing shops in Leonidio are well-stocked and you can find pretty much everything you may need.

Some of the newly bolted sectors or routes may still have loose rock. Then there are the many goats that roam around freely, sometimes right above the crags. So, helmets are good.

Since the weather can be quite unpredictable, changing from warm and sunny to windy, rainy, or even snowy, make sure you pack layers.

Where to stay

Accommodation

There are quite a few accommodation options in Leonidio and the surrounding villages – Poulithra (9 km south) and Sampatiki (9 km north).

Leonidio Apartments is popular among climbers, and there are many places to stay for different budgets, not all of them listed on Booking or Airbnb. Sometimes, you gotta just look up a place on Google and contact the host directly. Poulithra also has a few hotels, but not all stay open during winter.

There is only one campsite in Leonidio – Camping Semeli – located in Plaka. They offer places for pitching your tent and for parking your van. A lot of climbers opt to stay  here; the tent and van places are quite spacious, it’s quiet, and it’s right next to the beach.

The dirtbag way…

Is wild camping allowed in Greece? Well, that’s a bit of a gray area. Generally speaking, wild camping and staying in a camper van in undesignated places is not allowed in Greece. However, van dwelling is tolerated during winter months (off-season) in some areas, Leonidio included.

There are lots of vans in Leonidio; on the dirt roads to some of the crags, on the side of the road on the valley leading up to the mountain, by the beach… There’s even a designated parking place for vans in Plaka. As you can imagine, it’s pretty much always packed.

If you’re looking for a friendlier and truly spectacular location, then go to Fokiano Beach, about an hour’s drive from Leonidio. Yes, it’s quite far from the climbing in Leonidio, but it is close to Kapsala sector. It also makes for a nice place to spend a couple of rest days.

What to eat?

The Peloponnese is a paradise for food lovers. So, while in Leonidio, get ready to be swept off your feet by the Mediterranean cuisine and finger-licking Greek dishes. There are some Turkish influences here, so don’t be surprised if you see hummus, baklava, and other oriental dishes and spices. Also, Greek coffee is strikingly similar to Turkish coffee – finely ground and flavorful.

Make sure to try the souvlaki (the popular Greek fast-food with meat grilled on a skewer), gyros (Greek doner), fish varieties, and calamari. For vegetarians, there are loads of options, from the classic Greek salad to the many vegetable-based dishes. The whole area, and Leonidio in particular, is famous for its tsakoniki eggplants and there are many, many recipes that use them.

You’ll find loads of taverns in Leonidio, Plaka, and Poulithra. For a quick fix, head to “To Steki” and grab a souvlaki to go. For some Greek and Mediterranean delicacies, check out O Takas, Mitropolis Tavern, or Kalye. If you feel like having a pizza, go to In Leonidio or Giouzelito. 

For some great seafood and other Greek dishes at Myrtoon in Poulithra.

While in Greece, and especially in the Peloponnese, you simply must try the honey. You can find honey in the farmer’s market on Monday, at the supermarkets, and at souvenir shops. There are many varieties you can try, from the famed thyme honey to pine, orange blossom, and more.

Try the fragrant mountain tea they sell at the farmer’s market and at some shops downtown. Have some Greek pita bread with your meal. And switch to local olive oil, the cloudy fragrant kind that’s so delicious you could almost eat it with a spoon.

Don’t even get me started on the desserts… You have the baklava in many different varieties and kataifi (a sort of baklava, different dough). Then you have the loukoumades (sweet Greek donuts), karydopita (Greek walnut cake), revani (sponge cake with orange/lemon syrup), portokalopita (Greek orange cake), diples (Greek pastry dipped in honey), and many more.

Greek semolina halva, made with tahini (sesame paste), semolina, honey, nuts, and other optional ingredients, is a vegan dessert and one of the most delicious in Mediterranean cuisine. And for a simple treat, you can’t go wrong with the traditional yoghurt and honey.

Rest days

Rest days in Leonidio are mellow, just as they should be. You can walk around the winding narrow streets in downtown Leonidio, admiring the whitewashed houses and traditional architecture, stopping for a baklava at the local bakeries, a beer at a terrace, or lunch at a tavern. If you travel by personal car/van, bring your bike as it will make for a nice pastime and for getting around in a slow and very enjoyable pace.  

Beach hopping

Head out to the beach for a swim in the Myrtoan Sea. Leonidio’s main beach is Lakkos (Lakkos Paralia), about 4 kilometers from downtown Leonidio. However, I found the smaller beaches around Leonidio to be a lot prettier. Plaka, the traditional harbor 4 kilometers from downtown Leonidio, has a nice little pebble beach, taverns, market, and accommodation options.

Then there are the many small, intimate, and adorable hidden beaches near Poulithra that we simply loved.

Go to the idyllic Fokiano Beach on the road to Kyparissi, some 34 kilometers from Leonidio. Chill at the beach and in the picturesque harbor in the sheltered cove. Have a filling meal at Costa Mare Tavern on the beach.

Visit the surroundings

Visit Elona Monastery (half an hour drive from Leonidio), right next to Elona sector. Drive further, to the traditional mountain village of Kosmas (about 30 km from Leonidio) on the Dafonas River Gorge, and stop at one of the taverns.

Check out other climbing areas near Leonidio, like Kapsala (between Fokiano Beach and Kyparissi), Kyparissi (55 km from Leonidio on a scenic road by the sea), and Vlychada (a striking hidden cove 65 km from Leonidio).

If you’re up for a longer road trip, drive south to Monemvasia, a superb medieval castle town and one of the most romantic places in the whole of Greece.

Other useful travel advice

Getting there

Many climbers prefer to hop on a plane to Athens International Airport (ATH) and rent a car from there. Leonidio is 3.5 to 4 hours south of Athens by car.

There are also climbers who make the trip by personal car, converted van, or rental camper van, especially those who prefer to stay longer.

You can get to Leonidio via public transport, too. From Athens, there’s a bus to Leonidio (KTEL bus) twice a day. You’ll need to take a bus from Athens Airport to Kifissos in order to board the bus to Leonidio.

Getting around

If you plan to climb in Leonidio, it’s ideal to have a car. Sure, it is possible to get to Leonidio without one. But once here, you are limited in terms of where you can climb, as many sectors are scattered on the valley. You can reach some sectors by foot from town, but others do require a car to get to.

Budget

Greece is not the cheapest nor is it the most expensive country to visit. Overall, it is relatively affordable to spend your winter holidays (or the whole winter here).

Greece’s highways are really good; they’re also expensive, with toll booths everywhere. If you avoid the highways, the roads are strenuous and take much longer, so I guess there’s not much choice there.

Accommodation prices vary greatly in Leonidio and the surrounding villages. There are high-end options, but it is possible to find budget-friendly accommodation if you book in advance for the low season (winter months) and/or for a longer period of time. That said, the cheapest places are limited and in high demand.

The farmer’s market in Leonidio has decent prices (eggs and veggies are cheaper than in the supermarkets) and all the produce is fresh and local.

Luckily, the supermarkets are well-stocked and you can find pretty much everything you need. Some products are ridiculously expensive, but the local produce is fairly priced. As long as you’re creative with your meals, you can get away with a decently-priced shopping basket.

Overall, if you choose the dirtbagging way, it is possible to get around on a small budget – sleeping in a van, staying at the campsite, or scoring a cheap accommodation, eating takeaway souvlaki, making provisions from the farmer’s market, getting free oranges, and cooking your own meals are a few easy ways to save money during your trip.

Useful phrases in Greek

It was quite easy to get by with the locals in English since the entire town has not gotten used to the international flock of climbers.

Since I find it respectful to use a few Greek words in a conversation with the locals, here are a few useful phrases:

• Καλημέρα (Ka-li-me-ra) – Good morning (only until 12 pm)
• Γειά Σας (yia-sas) – Hello
• Καλησπέρα (Ka-li-spe-ra) – Good afternoon/evening
• Καληνύχτα (Ka-li-ni-hta) – Good night
• Ναι (Ne) – Yes
• Όχι (O-hi) – No
• Ευχαριστώ (ef-ha-ri-stoh) – Thank you
• Παρακαλώ (pa-ra-ka-loh) – Please/you’re welcome

Join in on the Greek spirit

Greeks enjoy life; and show it. Take this opportunity to slow down, admire the scenery, smell the oranges, feel the salty seawater on your skin, eat, laugh, and find your peace. If not here, where?

Greeks love spending time outdoors. They are passionate, value family time, and take eating and cooking very seriously. They also love coffee (and will take as many coffee breaks as they wish), are not punctual, are loud, they like to chat a lot when they meet, and they may come off as a bit chaotic at times. But that’s all part of the Greek spirit.

Time passes by differently here. In Leonidio, most shops close in the afternoon from 2 till 5 pm, and the whole village becomes quiet. That’s then Greek siesta. Then it all comes back to life in the evening.

Oh, and don’t be surprised if you see locals at taverns starting to sing or dance out of the blue. If you can, join them!

*Cover photo by Vali Aldea