In search of uncrowded crags and elusive king lines? Although climbing in Romania may not be such a big secret anymore, it remains an underdog. Which, in a sense, is a good thing.
Going to a new country to climb, we all could use some guidance; this is all the more true when said country has dozens of (relatively) small climbing areas scattered all around the Carpathian Mountains. That’s right, they’re all over the place. Each crag has its own distinctive style – vertical, steep, slabby, razor sharp crimps, river-polished limestone – and is bound to test your technique, power, and imagination. Don’t be fooled by the grades; the climbing here may take a bit of getting used to and even the (seemingly) easy routes can sometimes be sandbagged. All in all, plenty of test pieces await!
Romania is a spring till autumn climbing destination, with sport climbing, multi-pitch, trad, and bouldering on limestone, conglomerate, and sandstone. Right now, I’ll focus strictly on the top sport climbing destinations in Romania, where limestone prevails. This is a subjective list, a bit biased too, since I picked those crags that are particularly dear to me in terms of style, rock quality, location, and views. Nonetheless, these are the biggest and most popular climbing areas in Romania and they sure have a lot to offer.
So, if you’re planning on climbing in Romania and are unsure where to start, you can’t go wrong with these:
Climbing in Băile Herculane
Băile Herculane is the most popular climbing destination in Romania. It’s also one of the the biggest, with loads of routes in many different styles near Băile Herculane, a spa town, as well as on the picturesque Cerna Valley. Think overhangs, slabs, sheer vertical faces, crimps, the occasional tufa here and there, long pumpy routes, short bouldery lines… But this place is not all about the top-notch climbing; you have natural hot springs, greenery, pristine forests, waterfalls, scenic views, authenticity, tradition, and an overall different sense of time.
Near town and on the adjacent Cerna Valley you’ll find some of the hardest sport climbing routes in Romania. However, that doesn’t mean the area is for badass climbers only; there are plenty of routes in the lower grades, too. In fact, there are entire sectors with predominantly beginner-friendly lines.
In total, there are over 15 climbing sectors in Băile Herculane and along the Cerna Valley, each with its own sub-sectors. There are over 800 routes, a staggering number, and they’re not far from one another (~20 km is the farthest sector).
Read more >> Climbing in Băile Herculane, Romania
Climbing sectors in Băile Herculane
Vânturătoarea Waterfall steals the spotlight, the most famous crag in Băile Herculane. Perched above the Cerna Valley and split in two by a waterfall, it boasts impressive routes on high-quality limestone, both vertical and overhanging. While there’s a little something for everyone, the majority of the routes are from 7a+/7b upwards. The approach takes between 45 minutes and one hour uphill, but the view and routes at the end are absolutely worth the sweat.
Other popular crags are KM 9 and The Overhang (Surplomba), both of them with only handful of easier routes while the hard stuff prevails, and I’d describe them as testing in terms of style. Magnolia is a preferred crag for beginners, while KM 10, Ţâsna, Bobot, and Pecinişca all have completely different styles that may either suit your strengths or expose your weaknesses.
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Climbing in Băile Herculane is best in spring and autumn. Keep in mind that summers can get unpleasantly hot. There are freshwater springs in town and on the valley. The water from the Vânturătoarea Waterfall is of questionable quality, so do carry your own up there.
There’s an annual climbing competition/festival in September – Herculane Climbing Open – that attracts both local and foreign climbers. Old routes get revamped, new lines are bolted, and is a great opportunity to connect with local climbers and experience Romania’s climbing community firsthand.
P.S. You can find a small printed guidebook for Băile Herculane at Pensiunea Magic in town.
The climbing destinations around Braşov
In historic Transylvania, Braşov and its surrounding towns are a great base camp for exploring the many crags in the area, all of which have a bit of everything and are only a 15 to 45 minutes drive from each other.
For climbing in summer, there are places in the shade and at a higher altitude. At the same time, there are sunny crags that are great in spring and autumn. While it’s possible to climb in the Braşov area from early spring all the way till late autumn, that’s only true as long as you pick the areas wisely.
Read more >> The Best Climbing Destinations near Braşov
Zărneşti Gorges
For some old-school climbing on vertical and slightly overhanging limestone, head to the Zărneşti Gorges (Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor), one of the most popular climbing destinations near Braşov. It owes its appeal to the easy approach (park and walk for 5-15 minutes on a gravel road) and the variety of routes (mostly in the 6c to 8a range). Expect classic lines, pulling hard on crimps, pockets, and uncertain sidepulls. The climbing is mostly powerful and technical, while the smooth limestone demands precise footwork. Even the lower grades can pack a punch, so be ready to give 100%.
Read more >> Climbing in Zărneşti Gorges
La Refugiu sector – the large cliff behind the mountain rescue hut – is the most popular crag, a great place for both beginners and strong climbers. There are other smaller sectors, not to mention a few king lines along the gorges that don’t get much traffic, although they’re surely worthy of attention.
You can climb in the Zărneşti Gorges from late spring till early autumn. The only downside here is that most of the climbing is next to the road and the place is very touristy, so you may come across groups of people that can be loud. Summers are the busiest, weekends especially, so if you go in summer it’s best to climb during the week.
Colţul Chiliilor
Colţul Chiliilor is a relatively new crag that immediately caught on. Hidden in the forest, away from tourists, this pockety limestone crag currently has close to 30 routes from 5 to 7c+. Most of the lines are in the 6c to 7a+ range, which makes it an excellent place to get some mileage and build endurance. Don’t let the looks deceive you; these routes are pumpy, especially when you don’t know where the good pockets are. At over 1,100 meters and in the shade, this is a summertime crag.
Tamina
Tamina is yet another summer crag where challenging lines prevail. Aside from a few warm-up routes, most of the climbs here are from 7b upward. It sits at over 1,100 meters and most of it is in the shade thanks to the tall trees. The approach takes between 45 minutes and an hour uphill on touristic path leading to the Tamina Waterfall and Canyon. There are routes to the left and right of the canyon, some short and bouldery, others long and pumpy, most of them cruxy and overall quite taxing.
Aboland
For the slab masters, the Aboland Wall in the Postăvaru Massif is the place to perfect your smearing and high-feet skills. This south-facing cliff is a spring and autumn destination. There are several sectors with a bunch of interesting routes in the 6a to 7a+ range, while most of the lines are from 7b+ to 8a+, including multiple open projects. Sector D, the first one you arrive to, is a crowd favorite.
Belvedere
Belvedere is an impressive vertical crag, technical and powerful, with crimps, pockets, tiny knobs, cracks, and other interesting features on sharp, high-quality limestone. In terms of grades, it offers a lot of variety, from 5c all the way to 8a+. Away from tourists, hidden in the forest and getting a lot of sun on the main wall, this crag is for late spring, early autumn, and cooler summer days.
Climbing in Rarău
For sport climbing in an alpine setting, head to the Rarău Mountains in northeastern Romania, the place to escape the summer heat.
Over the last years, summers in Romania have gotten hotter and it seems that we need to go higher in order to enjoy better conditions. Luckily, we have Pietrele Doamnei (“the Lady’s Stones”), an imposing rock formation at over 1,600 meters. This is one of the climbing destinations with the highest elevation in Romania, and because there are sectors with both shade and sun, it’s become the ultimate summer crag.
Although the first routes were bolted in the early 2000’s, the place is not as popular as other climbing destinations in Romania. This is partly because it’s so far north from the capital, while the fickle weather also plays a role. We’ve been rained on while it was sunny everywhere else, and have seen temps suddenly drop from a toasty 25 degrees Celsius to below 10. The forecast is not always to be trusted, so pack layers and be prepared for anything. That said, if you’re patient, perfect conditions will eventually come and luckily the rock dries quite fast.
Weather aside, Rarău remains the best climbing destination in northern Romania. The limestone here is of exceptional quality – light gray and with excellent friction, it can sometimes seem featureless. Chalk marks are scarce, if any, and don’t be fooled by the grades; even the “easier ones” can pack a punch.
Climbing sectors in Rarău
There’s a touristic path at the bottom of the cliffs and there are sectors next to the path as well as farther away. All in all, there are over 160 routes here, and the most popular sectors are La Spital, Drogheria, and Peretele Berii.
La Spital sector (“At the Hospital”), where the routes have names of medical conditions, has a variety of grades, from 5c all the way to an 8a+ slab. Drogheria sector (“The Drug Store”), where the routes have names of medicine, has mostly beginner-friendly routes, from 4b to 7a. The hardest routes reside at Peretele Berii sector (“The Beer Wall”), where most routes have beer-inspired names and you’ll find some outstanding testpieces from 5b to 8b+. There are also some cool boulder lines just below Peretele Berii.
Close to Hotel Rarău, Peretele Coteţului (“The Coop Wall”) has mostly easy grades. There is another climbing sector east of Pietrele Doamnei, in the forest, Criză (“Crisis”). This crag doesn’t see much traffic and you may find some of the routes a bit dirty but certainly worthwhile. The grades range from 4 all the way to 8c, plus some hard projects that are starting to attract customers.
Still not convinced? For a little teaser, check out this climbing film by our friends at Wild Adventure Film, featuring Băile Herculane and some climbing near Braşov, with Rarău as the centerpiece. Psst…watch out at the end for a glimpse of the above-mentioned Colţul Chiliilor crag.
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When it comes to places to stay, climbers prefer to either park their van or camp next to the mountain rescue team’s headquarters. This is an unofficial “campsite”, free of charge and with no amenities. There’s a water spring next to the parking place above the mountain rescue headquarters, but the its quality is questionable and locals advise against drinking it. So, best bring your own water.
Unfortunately, there is no printed guidebook for this spectacular area, but you can get around with what you find on thecrag. At the same time, the mountain rescue team is always happy to provide info once your there.
Climbing in Bicaz Gorges
Bicaz Gorges (Cheile Bicazului) is home to some of the oldest and most imposing multi-pitch routes in Romania. Climbing history was written here, in terms of multi-pitch and speed climbing, as well as in terms of sport climbing. When it comes to the latter, medium to high difficulty is what characterizes most of the climbing in Bicaz and nearby Şugău.
These are among the most impressive limestone cliffs in Romania, with sheer vertical walls and towers rising high above the winding valley. This does have a downside, though, as the place is super touristy. Some climbing sectors are close to the road and can be loud for a number of reasons. Luckily, there are a few crags where tourists simply have no business being, and those are top-notch.
Climbing sectors in Bicaz and Şugău
Raza Soarelui (“Sun Ray”) is the most beginner-friendly climbing sector in the Bicaz Gorges, with over 60 routes ranging from 5a to 8b. Most of the routes are in the 6b to 7a range. Just as the name implies, this crag gets a lot of sun and is great on colder days. You can find more info on this sector and topos for the subsectors here.
There are some climbing sectors in Bicaz where pretty much all of the routes are hard. Take for example the famous K2 sector and La Tunel sector, where you’ll find some of the first hard sport climbing routes in Romania. Except for a couple of warm-up lines, most of the routes are from 7c to 8a and higher.
Hidden in a lovely forest higher above the road, Plus is one of the newer crags in the Bicaz area. Most of the routes here are quite challenging, in the 7a to 8a range, vertical to slightly overhanging, and they all pack a punch. You can find more info and topos for this sector here.
There are other small crags in the forest along the valley, some with only 3 or 4 routes each, where you may find the occasional five-star route to keep you busy for the whole trip.
In the Şugău Gorges (Cheile Şugăului), to the east of Bicaz Gorges, there are a few epic sectors with routes ranging from beginner-friendly all the way to hard projects, slabs, overhangs, and everything in between, mostly in the 6a+ to 8a+ range. La Fraţi is one of the more popular sectors in Şugău, with powerful and technical routes on vertical limestone with tricky pockets, crimps, and slopers. Faleza de lângă Cabană (“The Crag by the Cabin”) has mostly easy, beginner-friendly lines and a couple of popular hard routes from 7c+ to 8a+.
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The best time to climb in the Bicaz Gorges and in the Şugău Gorges is spring and autumn. Summers can get a bit too warm. Nevertheless, the shady sectors in the forest offer a bit of a breeze and you may get lucky and find acceptable conditions. On cold, sunny days, opt for one of the many sun-oriented crags and you should be fine.
There is no printed guidebook for this area yet, but you can find topos for most of the sectors on thecrag.
The climbing destinations in the Apuseni Mountains
Beginners and those traveling with family and/or friends cannot go wrong with the Apuseni Mountains. There are dozens of adorable, small crags as well as some large, famous areas with a lot of climbing history. Some of the first hard routes in Romania were bolted and climbed in these parts, so there’s huge potential.
Do keep in mind that climbing in the Apuseni Mountains is a spring and autumn venture. At most of the sectors, summers are too hot to even sit at the bottom of the crag.
Pereţii Gri, Şuncuiuş
Nestled in the spectacular Criș River Gorges (Defileul Crișului Repede), famous for its caves, sandy beaches on the river banks, rafting, via ferrata, and hiking routes, lies one of Romania’s most spectacular single crags.
Close to the road that connects Cluj-Napoca to Oradea, in the Pădurea Craiului Mountains, there are a bunch of climbing sectors near the small village of Şuncuiuş, and there are many more along the gorges between Şuncuiuş and Vadu Crișului. However, Pereţii Gri (“The Gray Walls“) takes the win.
Albeit small, with only 60+ routes out of which some (especially in the far end) have probably not been touched in years, Pereţii Gri has about two handfuls of fantastic lines to offer.
West of Şuncuiuş, on the river’s left bank, right where the Criș River makes a big, sharp turn, a grayish crag sits tall and mighty above the gently flowing river and is the place to be for experienced climbers. Although there are some “easier” routes at this crag, they are few in numbers and lack the quality that the routes above 7a have to offer. So, if you’re looking for aesthetic moves, 7a and upwards (more like 7b+ to 7c+), just head on over here.
This is a power-endurance crag, a bit overhanging but not too steep. Think rounded edges, flat jugs, crimps, the occasional mantles, and huge powerful moves. It’s as if every single move requires your full commitment and if you waste any energy, you’re done!
If you’re a beginner, I recommend the many sectors along the gorges that have plenty of lower-grade routes. Of course, I also recommend paying this crag at least one visit, no matter where you are right now in your climbing journey.
As opposed to many of the climbing areas in the Apuseni Mountains, Pereţii Gri is not a child-friendly sector. The access to the cliff is on a series of chains above the river. When the river is low, it’s possible to walk at the bottom, but there is a dam upstream and you never know when the water is going to get high again.
Pereţii Gri has six subsectors. The first sector can be easily reached from the path on flat terrain, whereas the others require you to traverse on the chains. There is a freshwater spring just after the chains where you can fill your water bottles.
As you exit the village of Şuncuiuş on the river’s left bank, a dirt road will lead you to a big meadow right next to the river. It’s possible to wild camp here as it is a designated camping place within the nature reserve. There are no amenities, but it’s free and you can build a campfire and bathe in the river. What’s more, Pereţii Gri is only a 5 to 10 minutes walk.
Pereţii Gri is a spring and autumn climbing destination. The wall is east-oriented and gets shade around noon, but summers can be quite hot and, combined with the humidity from the river below, won’t be so pleasant.
Ampoiţa
The Limestones at Ampoiţa (Calcarele de la Ampoiţa) is a spectacular climbing destination only 10 km from Alba Iulia. Whitish, jutting out of a green pasture, three limestone pillars are packed with over 180 routes, slab and vertical, with crimps, small pockets, and other interesting features. Most of the routes range from 5 to 7b, making it a great place for beginners and for those looking to get as much climbing in as possible in a limited amount of time. That said, there are a few harder routes up for grabs that might just put your skills to the test.
Climbing at Ampoiţa is reserved for spring and autumn, since summers can get seriously hot and these crags get a lot of sun. The place is very welcoming and child friendly, and you can even wild camp at the base of these limestone pillars.
Turzii Gorges
South of Cluj-Napoca, Turzii Gorges (Cheile Turzii) is one of the oldest climbing destinations in Romania, with impressive multi-pitch routes on sheer vertical limestone walls rising tall above a winding river. These cliffs are what made it one of the most famous climbing destinations in the country way back when. Later on, the challenging sport climbing routes that emerged here helped secure its place on the map.
The most famous sector among hardcore climbers has to be Peştera Ungurească (“The Hungarian Cave”), home to some of the hardest, most powerful overhanging routes in the country. The routes are inside the cave and around the entrance, so it’s usually cooler here, even in summer.
For beginners and everyone looking for some easier, fun routes, Peretele Cald (“The Warm Wall”) is a great place to have fun and get some mileage, as most of the routes go from 6a+ to 6c+. As the name suggests, this sector gets a lot of sun and is best in early spring and late autumn.
There are other sport climbing sectors in the gorges, some close to the touristic path along the river, some higher up, perched on the rocky slopes of the gorges, quiet and with an impressive view.
It’s best to climb in the Turzii Gorges in spring and autumn since summers can get hot.
Rîmetea
Rîmetea is a little village under a limestone massif packed with climbing routes. They say it’s one of the prettiest villages in Romania. I totally agree.
This is a relatively big climbing area with several sectors scattered on the rocky massif that goes by the name of Piatra Secuiului (“The Szekler’s Rock”). One of the best beginner-friendly climbing destinations in Romania, there are many routes in the lower grades, not too long, mostly slabby and sharp just enough.
Most of the climbing sectors Rîmetea get a lot of sun, so this is yet another spring and autumn destination. Some sectors are in the lower part of the rocky massif, just above the green plains, and take about 10 minutes to reach, whereas the farthest sectors are in the upper part of this rocky hill and take about 45 minutes to reach. In total, there are over 300 routes. Most of them are from 5c to 7b+, plus a few harder ones. There’s an incredible diversity of grades, making Rîmetea an excellent destination for families and mixed groups of climbers.
Cheile Mânăstirii
Cheile Mânăstirii (“The Monastery’s Gorges”) may not be such a popular climbing destination, nor does it get that much attention, but it is spectacular to say the least. A limestone pillar rises high behind a monastery, hence the name of the place. They’re often referred to as Rîmeţ Gorges, although that’s not quite accurate; the Rîmeţ Gorges are a little bit upstream and do not have any climbing routes.
This big pillar has several climbing sectors with sport climbing routes as well as a good number of multi-pitches. Cheile Mânăstirii is a beginner-friendly climbing destination, with many routes from 6b to 6c+, but rest assured that it does offer a few challenging routes as well.
The tower behind the monastery has several climbing sectors. Sector A is the biggest, with mostly slab routes in the 6’s, as well as some very interesting and technical routes in the upper 7’s.
However, in my opinion, the most impressive is sector C, the Canyon. Behind the tower, there’s a narrow canyon with a very alpine feel to it. The routes are from 6a to 7b+, most of them technical, with cracks, underclings, and crimps on high-quality limestone.
The best time to climb in Cheile Mânăstirii is spring and autumn. The canyon sector is the only one that is in the shade all day and gets a nice breeze, therefore it’s possible to climb there on summer days when the air is not too hot.
On a rest day, the nearby Rîmeţ Gorges, upstream from the climbing area, is a must-see. These narrow gorges can be visited in two ways – directly through the canyon, advancing through the knee-deep water, or above on a steep hiking route. Both options are truly impressive and I recommend doing a circuit and seeing both. Upstream from the gorges you’ll find an isolated traditional village where most of the houses are abandoned, a real-life village museum deep in the heart of the Apuseni Mountains.
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