In search of uncrowded crags and elusive king lines? Even though climbing in Romania may not be such a big secret anymore, it remains an underdog. Which can only be good news.
Going to a new country to climb, we all could use some guidance. This is all the more true when said country has dozens of (relatively) small climbing areas scattered all around the Carpathian Mountains. Yes, they’re all over the place. Each crag has its own distinctive style, with vertical faces, overhangs, slabs, razor sharp as well as river-polished limestone. They’re bound to test your technique, power, and imagination. Don’t be fooled by the grades; the climbing here may take a bit of getting used to and even the (seemingly) easy routes can sometimes be sandbagged. All in all, plenty of test pieces await!
Romania is a spring till autumn climbing destination, with sport climbing, multi-pitch, trad, and bouldering on limestone, conglomerate, and sandstone. But here, I’ll focus strictly on the top sport climbing destinations in Romania, where limestone prevails. This is a subjective list, a bit biased too, since I picked those crags that are particularly appealing to me in terms of style, location, and landscape. Nevertheless, these are the biggest and most popular climbing areas in Romania and they sure have a lot to offer.
So, if you’re planning on climbing in Romania and are unsure where to start, I’m pretty sure you can’t go wrong with these places:
Climbing in Băile Herculane
Băile Herculane is the most popular climbing destination in Romania. It’s also one of the the biggest, with loads of routes in many different styles near Băile Herculane, a spa town, as well as on the picturesque Cerna Valley. Think overhangs, slabs, sheer vertical faces, crimps, the occasional tufa here and there, long pumpy routes, short bouldery lines… Then you have the natural hot springs, the greenery, waterfalls, forests, hiking, authenticity, tradition. There’s a whole lot to experience in these parts.
Near town and on the adjacent Cerna Valley you’ll find some of the hardest sport climbing routes in Romania. But that doesn’t mean the area is for badass climbers only. There are easy routes, too. In fact, there are entire sectors with predominantly beginner-friendly routes.
In total, there are over 15 climbing sectors in Băile Herculane and along the Cerna Valley, each with its own sub-sectors. There are close to 900 routes, a number that’s set to increase.
Climbing sectors in Băile Herculane
The most famous crag in Băile Herculane is Vânturătoarea Waterfall. Perched above the Cerna Valley and split in two by a waterfall, it’s got impressive routes on high-quality limestone, vertical and slightly overhanging. While there’s a little something for everyone, the majority of the routes are from 7a+/7b upwards. The approach can be a little daunting, 45 minutes to one hour uphill, but the view and routes at the end are absolutely worth the sweat.
Other popular crags are KM 9 and the Overhang (Surplomba), both with a handful of easier routes but overall quite demanding. Magnolia is a preferred crag for beginners. KM 10, Ţâsna, Bobot, and Pecinişca all have completely different styles that may either reveal your strengths or expose your weaknesses.
More info
Climbing in Băile Herculane is best in spring and autumn. Keep in mind that summers can get unpleasantly hot. There are freshwater springs in town and on the valley, so water won’t be an issue. The water from the Vânturătoarea Waterfall is of questionable quality, so do carry your own.
There’s an annual climbing competition/festival in September – Herculane Climbing Open – that attracts both local and foreign climbers.
You can find a small printed guidebook for Băile Herculane at Pensiunea Magic in town.
Read more >> Climbing in Băile Herculane, Romania
The climbing destinations around Braşov
In historic Transylvania, Braşov and its surrounding towns are a great base camp for exploring the many crags in the area, all of which have a bit of everything and are only a 15 to 45 minutes drive from each other.
For climbing in summer, there are places in the shade and at a higher altitude. At the same time, there are sunny crags that are great in spring and autumn. While it’s possible to climb in the Braşov area from early spring all the way till late autumn, it all comes down to the areas you pick.
Zărneşti Gorges
For some old-school climbing on vertical and slightly overhanging limestone, head to the Zărneşti Gorges (Prăpăstiile Zărneştilor), one of the most popular climbing destinations near Braşov. It owes its appeal to the easy approach (you park and walk for 5-15 minutes on a gravel road) and the variety of routes (mostly in 6c to 8a+ range). Expect classic lines, pulling hard on crimps, pockets, and uncertain sidepulls. The climbing is mostly powerful and technical, and this smooth limestone demands precise footwork. Even the lower grades can pack a punch, so be ready to give 100%.
La Refugiu sector – the large cliff behind the mountain rescue hut – is the most popular crag, a great place for both beginners and hardcore climbers. There are other smaller sectors and a few king lines along the gorges that don’t get to see many climbers, although they surely deserve to.
You can climb in the Zărneşti Gorges from late spring to early autumn. Most of the climbing is next to the road and the place is very touristy. You may come across groups of people that can be quite loud. Summers are the busiest, weekends too, so if you go in summer it’s best to climb during the week.
Read more >> Climbing in Zărneşti Gorges
Colţul Chiliilor
Colţul Chiliilor is a newly developed crag that immediately caught on. Hidden in the forest, away from tourists, this pockety limestone crag currently has close to 30 routes from 5 to 7c+. Most of the lines are in the 6c to 7a+ range, which makes it an excellent place to get some mileage and build endurance. Don’t let the looks deceive you; these routes are pumpy, especially when you don’t know where the good pockets are. At over 1,100 meters and in the shade, this is a summer crag.
Tamina
Tamina is yet another summer crag where challenging lines prevail. Aside from a few warm-up routes, most of the climbs here are from 7b upward. It sits at over 1,100 meters and is pretty much always in the shade. The approach takes around 45 minutes on a touristic path leading to the Tamina Waterfall and Canyon. There are routes to the left and right of the canyon, some short and bouldery, others long and pumpy, most of them cruxy and overall quite taxing.
Aboland
For the slab masters, the Aboland Wall in the Postăvaru Massif is the place to perfect your smearing and high-feet skills. This south-facing cliff is a spring and autumn destination. There are several sectors with a bunch of interesting routes in the 6a to 7a+ range, while most of the lines are from 7b+ to 8a+. Sector D, the first one you arrive to, is a crowd favorite.
Belvedere
Belvedere is an impressive vertical crag, technical and powerful, with crimps, pockets, tiny knobs, cracks, and other interesting features on sharp, high-quality limestone. In terms of grades, it offers a lot of variety, from 5c all the way to 8a+. Away from tourists, hidden in the forest and getting a lot of sun on the main wall, this crag is for late spring, early autumn, and cooler summer days.
Read more >> The Best Climbing Destinations near Braşov, Romania
Climbing in Rarău
For sport climbing in an alpine setting, head to the Rarău Mountains in northeastern Romania, the place to escape the summer heat.
Over the last years, summers in Romania have gotten hotter and it seems that we need to get higher in order to enjoy better conditions. Luckily, we have the Pietrele Doamnei (“the Lady’s Stones”), an imposing rock formation at over 1,600 meters. This is one of the climbing destinations with the highest elevation in Romania. And because there are sectors with both shade and sun, it’s become the ultimate summer crag.
Although the first routes were bolted in the early 2000’s, the place is not as popular as other climbing destinations in Romania. This is partly because it’s so far north from the capital and partly because of the fickle weather. We’ve been rained on while it was sunny everywhere else, and have seen temps suddenly drop from a toasty 25 degrees Celsius to below 10 degrees Celsius. The forecast is not always to be trusted, so pack layers and be prepared for anything.
Nevertheless, Rarău remains the best climbing destination in northern Romania. The limestone here is of exceptional quality. Light gray, with excellent friction, it might seem featureless at first. Chalk marks can be hard to make out (if there are any) and don’t be fooled by the grades – even the “easier ones” can still pack a punch.
Climbing sectors in Rarău
There’s a touristic path at the bottom of the cliffs and there are sectors next to the path as well as farther away. The most popular sectors are La Spital, Drogheria, and Peretele Berii.
La Spital sector (“At the Hospital”), where the routes have names of medical conditions, has a variety of grades, from 5c all the way to an 8a+ slab. Drogheria sector (“The Drug Store”), where the routes have names of medicine, has mostly beginner-friendly routes, from 4b to 7a. The hardest routes reside at Peretele Berii sector (“The Beer Wall”), where most routes have beer-inspired names. You’ll also find some cool boulder lines just below Peretele Berii.
Close to Hotel Rarău, Peretele Coteţului (“The Coop Wall”) has mostly easy grades. There is another climbing sector east of Pietrele Doamnei, in the forest, Criză (“Crisis”). This crag doesn’t see much traffic and you may find some of the routes a bit dirty but certainly worthwhile. The grades range from 4 all the way to 8a+, plus some hard projects.
More info
When it comes to places to stay, climbers prefer to either park their van or camp next to the mountain rescue team’s headquarters. This is an unofficial “campsite”, free of charge and with no amenities. There’s a water spring next to the parking place above the mountain rescue headquarters, but the its quality is questionable and locals advise against drinking it. So, bring your own water.
Unfortunately, there is no printed guidebook for this spectacular area, but you can get around with what you find on thecrag.
Still not convinced? For a little teaser, check out this climbing film by our friends at Wild Adventure Film, featuring Băile Herculane and some climbing near Braşov, with Rarău as the centerpiece. Psst…watch out at the end for a glimpse of the above-mentioned Colţul Chiliilor crag.
Climbing in Bicaz Gorges
Bicaz Gorges (Cheile Bicazului) is home to some of the oldest and most imposing multi-pitch routes in Romania. Climbing history was written here, in terms of multi-pitch and speed climbing, as well as in terms of sport climbing. When it comes to the latter, medium to high difficulty is what characterizes most of the climbing in Bicaz and nearby Şugău.
These are among the most impressive canyons in Romania, with sheer vertical walls and towers rising high above the winding valley. This has its downsides, as the place is super touristy. Some climbing sectors are close to the road, but there are quite a few crags where tourists simply have no business being.
Climbing sectors in Bicaz and Şugău
Raza Soarelui (“Sun Ray”) is the most beginner-friendly climbing sector in the Bicaz Gorges, with over 60 routes ranging from 5a to 8b. Most of the routes are in the 6b to 7a range. This crag gets a lot of sun and is great on colder days. You can find more info on this sector and topos for the subsectors here.
There are some climbing sectors in Bicaz where pretty much all of the routes are hard. Take for example the famous K2 sector and La Tunel sector, where you’ll find some of the first hard sport climbing routes in Romania. Except for a couple of warm-up lines, most of the routes are from 7c to 8a and higher.
Hidden in a lovely forest higher above the road, Plus is one of the newer crags in the Bicaz area. Most of the routes here are quite challenging, in the 7a to 8a range, vertical to slightly overhanging, and they all pack a punch. You can find more info and topos for this sector here.
There are other small crags in the forest along the valley, with only 3 or 4 routes each, where you may find the occasional five-star route to obsess over.
In the Şugău Gorges (Cheile Şugăului), to the east of Bicaz Gorges, there are a few epic sectors with routes ranging from beginner-friendly all the way to hard projects, slabs, overhangs, and everything in between, mostly in the 6a+ to 8a+ range. La Fraţi is one of the more popular sectors in Şugău, with powerful and technical routes on vertical limestone with tricky pockets, crimps, and slopers. Faleza de lângă Cabană (“The Crag by the Cabin”) has mostly easy, beginner-friendly lines and a couple of popular hard routes from 7c+ to 8a+.
More info
The best time to climb in the Bicaz Gorges and in the Şugău Gorges is spring and autumn. Summers can get hot and even though the shady sectors in the forest offer a bit of a breeze, you may still sweat your ass off. On cold, sunny days, opt for one of the many sun-oriented crags and you should be just fine.
There is no printed guidebook for this area yet, but you can find topos for most of the sectors on thecrag.
The climbing destinations in the Apuseni Mountains
Beginners and those traveling with family and/or friends cannot go wrong with the Apuseni Mountains. There are dozens of adorable, small crags as well as some large, famous areas with a lot of climbing history. Some of the first hard routes in Romania were bolted and climbed in these parts, so there’s huge potential.
Do keep in mind that climbing in the Apuseni Mountains is a spring and autumn venture. At most of the sectors, summers are too hot to even sit at the bottom of the crag.
Ampoiţa
The Limestones at Ampoiţa (Calcarele de la Ampoiţa) is a spectacular climbing destination only 10 km from Alba Iulia. Whitish, jutting out of a green pasture, three limestone pillars are packed with over 180 routes, slab and vertical, with crimps, small pockets, and other interesting features. Most of the routes range from 5 to 7b, making it a great place for beginners and for those looking to get some mileage. At the same time, the few hard routes here might test your skills.
Climbing at Ampoiţa is reserved for spring and autumn, since summers can get seriously hot and these crags get a lot of sun. The place is very welcoming and child friendly, and you can even wild camp at the base of these limestone pillars.
Turzii Gorges
South of Cluj-Napoca, Turzii Gorges (Cheile Turzii) is one of the oldest climbing destinations in Romania, with impressive multi-pitch routes on sheer vertical limestone walls rising tall above a winding river. These cliffs are what made it one of the most famous climbing destinations in the country way back when. Later, the hard sport climbing helped secure its place on the map.
The most famous sector among hardcore climbers has to be Peştera Ungurească (“The Hungarian Cave”), home to some of the hardest, most powerful overhanging routes in the country. The routes are inside the cave and around the entrance, so it’s usually cooler here, even in summer.
For beginners and everyone looking for some easier, fun routes, Peretele Cald (“The Warm Wall”) is a great place to have fun and get some mileage, as most of the routes go from 6a+ to 6c+. As the name suggests, this sector gets a lot of sun and is best in early spring and late autumn.
There are other sport climbing sectors in the gorges, some close to the touristic path along the river, some higher up, perched on the rocky slopes of the gorges and with an impressive view.
It’s best to climb in the Turzii Gorges in spring and autumn since summers can get hot.
Rîmetea
Rîmetea is a little village under a limestone massif packed with climbing routes. They say it’s one of the prettiest villages in Romania. I totally agree.
This is a relatively big climbing area with several sectors scattered on the rocky massif that goes by the name of Piatra Secuiului (“The Szekler’s Rock”). One of the best beginner-friendly climbing destinations in Romania, there are many routes in the lower grades, not too long, mostly slabby and only sharp enough. Of course, there are some harder routes as well thanks to the annual climbing competition/festival Rîmetea Climbing Open and Highline.
Most of the climbing sectors Rîmetea get a lot of sun, so this is yet another spring and autumn destination. Some sectors are in the lower part of the rocky massif, just above the green plains, and take about 10 minutes to reach, whereas the farthest sectors are in the upper part of this rocky hill and take about 45 minutes to reach. In total, there are over 300 routes. Most of them are from 5c to 7b+, plus a few harder ones. There’s an incredible diversity of grades, making Rîmetea an excellent destination for families and mixed groups of climbers.
Cheile Mânăstirii
Cheile Mânăstirii (“The Monastery’s Gorges”) may not be such a big climbing destination, nor does it get that much attention. But it is spectacular to say the least. A limestone pillar rises high behind a monastery, hence the name of the place. They’re often referred to as Rîmeţ Gorges, although that’s not quite accurate; the Rîmeţ Gorges are a little bit upstream and do not have any climbing routes.
This big pillar has several climbing sectors with sport climbing routes as well as a good number of multi-pitches. Cheile Mânăstirii is a beginner-friendly climbing destination, with many routes from 6b to 6c+.
The tower behind the monastery has several climbing sectors. There’s a sector right at the bottom, next to the river. Sector A is the biggest, with mostly slab routes in the 6’s, as well as some very interesting and technical routes in the upper 7’s.
In my opinion, the most impressive sector is sector C, the Canyon. Behind the tower, there’s a narrow canyon with an alpine feel to it. The routes are from 6a to 7b+, most of them technical, with cracks, underclings, and crimps on high-quality limestone. You have to be creative here.
The best time to climb in Cheile Mânăstirii is spring and autumn. The canyon sector is the only one that is in the shade all day and gets a nice breeze, therefore it’s possible to climb there on cooler summer days, too.
On a rest day, the nearby Rîmeţ Gorges, upstream from the climbing area, is a must-see. These narrow gorges can be visited in two ways – directly through the canyon, advancing through the knee-deep water, or above on a steep hiking route. Both options are truly impressive and I recommend doing a circuit and seeing both. Upstream from the gorges there’s an isolated traditional village. Most houses are abandoned, save for a couple, and it feels like a real-life village museum deep in the heart of the Apuseni Mountains.
