Swimming, cliff jumping, deep water soloing, fresh seafood, scenic sunrises, sleeping under a billion stars… Is there a better way to spend those hot summer days?
When it gets so hot that “normal” climbing starts to feel unpleasant, climbing in Tyulenovo on Bulgaria’s northern coastline is a sweet alternative. This is the place for climbing without a rope, aka deep water soloing (DWS).
In northeastern Bulgaria, between Kavarna and Shabla, the coast looks…different. It’s rocky; I mean sheer cliffs, from a few meters to 70 meters tall, rising straight from the sea. There are no resorts, no noise, no hassle, no mass tourism. There are hardly any beaches in the “traditional” sense.
For us climbers and dirtbags, Kamen Bryag and Tyulenovo are the focal points in this little corner of Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast, two hidden gems lost in time and space. If it weren’t for the climbers, divers, backpackers, and dirtbags who call it their second home during summer, these two villages would be almost deserted.
Whether you come for the DWS at Tyulenovo, to do some snorkeling, swim in the crystal-clear water with excellent visibility, visit historic sights, or simply lie back and relax in Kamen Bryag, you’re in for a treat!
Kamen Bryag and Tyulenovo
Kamen Bryag and Tyulenovo are two small villages five kilometers apart, with adorable stone houses, terracotta tile roofs, only a handful of guesthouses (at most), a few taverns, and a spectacular shoreline.
With clear water, underwater caves, shipwrecks, rich marine life, and sheer limestone cliffs plunging straight into the sea, this part of Bulgaria is a coveted destination for snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and SUP. It’s also Eastern Europe’s most popular deep water solo (DWS) and cliff jumping destination.
There are no sunbeds or umbrellas, no crowds, amenities, toilets, changing cabins, or lifeguards, simply because the landscape does not allow for that. Everything’s rocky and steep, so you have to put in a little effort. Thankfully, that helps keep the annoying crowds at bay.
Getting into the water can be a challenge. There are a few (note the emphasis on “a few”) places where you can go down a path and get into the sea from a more “comfortable” position – aka walk into the water or climb down.
There is another way to get in the water – jumping! Tyulenovo is a popular cliff jumping destination, with quite a few “take-offs” ranging from 1 meter to over 10 meters in height. It’s best to go with someone who knows these spots the first time here. You should be 100% sure that the landing is safe – the water is deep enough, there are no underlying rocks, and the sea is not rough or there’s a chance you might hurt yourself when you try to get out.
Kamen Bryag – a dirtbag haven
Hippies, dirtbags, backpackers, unquenchable travelers, all gather here. Some spend a few days, others the entire summer snorkeling, fishing, harvesting mussels, climbing, cliff jumping, and just chilling. Oh yeah, Kamen Bryag sure is a great place for dirtbags.
The village is only a few hundred meters from the sea. You can pitch your tent on the plateau between the village and the sea, on the grassy field (albeit rather dry and sunburnt in summer). The only thing separating you from the Black Sea will be the sheer cliffs, over 30-40 meters tall.
In mid-August, there were only a handful of tents there, all very far apart. You can also park your van here, or hit the sack under the stars without a tent, as we did. In addition to this, there are quite a few caves carved into the soft limestone cliffs that serve as refuge for dirtbags and hippies. Aaaand…you can use the “eternal flame” in Kamen Bryag (more on that below) to whip up your meals.
In the village “center”, there’s a store with the basics where travelers and dirtbags gather in the evening for a beer. This it the “most crowded” place in Kamen Bryag.
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Getting in the water and DWS at Kamen Bryag
There are a couple of places where you can go down into the water using the paths that descend through the cliffs. One of these paths is close to the large pile of stones that encircles the ever-burning fire. There’s another path further north. Do take note that the paths are a bit steep and the entrance in the water is rocky, so swimming is not exactly advisable when the sea is too choppy or rough.
Due to the many rocks close to the shore, there are no cliff jumping spots outside Kamen Bryag.
However, there is deep water soloing at Kamen Bryag; within Yaylata National Archaeological Reserve, to be more precise, about two kilometers south of the village. You can drive there and get into the reserve through the gate (and pay a small entrance fee), or you can walk along the coast and get in for free.
The deep water solo routes at Yaylata are located in the vicinity of the Byzantine citadel, within the reserve, and are mostly short, between 5 and 10 meters, from 5b to 7a. There are four sectors here and the farthest is two kilometers from the entrance to Yaylata Reserve.
Kamen Bryag’s eternal flame and the July Morning Festival
Outside Kamen Bryag, between the village and the sea, you’ll find Ogancheto – “Little Fire” in Bulgarian. Also called the “eternal flame” or “ever-burning fire”, this is a small flame that burns unceasingly at the end of an abandoned gas pipe that comes from a crack between the rocks. In the past, it used to be on the very edge of the cliff, which led to a good number of fatal accidents (there are memorial stones near the edge that stand as a testament to this). Hence, it was moved farther from the precipice.
Just before July 1st, people across Bulgaria travel to the Black Sea to greet the first sunrise of July, a tradition reminiscent of the hippie era. People often camp by the coast, and there are usually festivals and music concerts. Kamen Bryag is actually one of the most popular venues to celebrate July Morning.
Each year, the July Morning Festival joins together thousands of people on the plateau outside Kamen Bryag, around the eternal flame. There are rock and folk concerts, and the cult song “July Morning” is performed. In 2012, John Lawton, former Uriah Heep lead singer, sang “July Morning” during this festival. The John Lawton Memorial, a stone-built bench with the statue of John Lawton sitting on it, is close to the ever burning fire.
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Deep water soloing at Tyulenovo
Thanks to its impressive rock formations, Tyulenovo is somewhat of a tourist attraction. Tyulenovo Rocks and the Tyulenovo Arch are the most popular sights, and sometimes groups of tourists will come here to take a few pics; they’ll usually be on their way shortly after.
In the hottest days of summer, chances are you’ll hear a lot of “allez” and “gamba” below the edge of these cliffs. That’s because Tyulenovo is Bulgaria’s premier deep water solo destination.
There are over 70 DWS routes at Tyulenovo. Most of the routes are between 5c and 7a, which makes it great for getting used to deep water soloing, since it’s a whole different feeling when you climb without any equipment, with only the sea to catch your fall. There are some harder lines, too, all the way to 8a+. Most are vertical and overhanging, but there are also some very easy lines that are a bit slabby, which are often used for exiting the water.
You’ll find a couple of easy lines south of the village, close to the popular access to the sea. There are some next to the Tyulenovo Arch. However, most of the DWS routes in Tyulenovo are north of the village. You can easily get to the top of the cliffs by car on the dirt roads along the shoreline.
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Getting in the water and cliff jumping at Tyulenovo
There are several places where you can get into the water. One of the most popular is south of the village, where a friendly path descends to a rocky platform. From there, you can get into the water as you would in a pool because the sea is already deep. There are some ropes to help you get out.
Another one is Fishermen’s Bay in front of Hotel Tyulenovo, a small, rocky bay with fishing boats. You can walk into the water here, but the seabed is not that friendly, with lots of sharp rocks, so water boots are recommended.
Furthermore, you can walk on the Tyulenovo Arch and make your way all the way down to the sea, where a natural pool awaits. There are various rocky platforms here where you can chill and sunbathe. Then, there are a bunch of other places, such as the access paths to the deep water solo routes at Tyulenovo, where you can also access the Black Sea.
The other way to get in the water is…to jump.
Aside from deep water soloing, Tyulenovo is a popular cliff jumping destination. There are several places where you can cliff dive, some quite tall. There are cliff-jumping spots ranging from 1 meter to 17 meters. The depth of the sea is between 3 and 9 meters.
Obviously, both DWS and cliff jumping are dangerous activities. This is mainly because of the underlying rocks that can be hazardous. Also, when the sea is restless, getting out of the water can be quite difficult, as there’s a risk of being smashed against the rocks by the waves.
Do not attempt deep water soloing or cliff jumping if you’re not an experienced swimmer. The water is deep, and the exit from the water can be tricky. Also, do not attempt these activities in places where you are not 100% sure that the landing is safe. When the sea is rough, stay safe and try easier stuff, going in and out of the sea in a controlled manner. Or don’t go in at all if it looks unsafe.
Best time to go climbing in Tyulenovo
The best time to go climbing at Tyulenovo and Kamen Bryag is, obviously, summer. The water gets warmer in July and stays warm all through September. Sometimes, June can be good, too. The average water temperature in summer is 24-25 degrees Celsius.
The downside is that there’s almost no shade, so consider yourself warned! The sun rises from the sea. You can hide from the sun down on the rocks, next to the sea, moving with the shade, but that’s pretty much all you can do.
Summer is a great time to enjoy all that Kamen Bryag and Tyulenovo have to offer, especially in terms of water activities. But this coastline is spectacular in all seasons – it’s green in spring, impressive on very cold winter days when there’s ice on the rocks, and very colorful in autumn with its many hues of orange, yellow, and brown.
“Normal” beaches near Tyulenovo and Kamen Bryag
Of course, the lack of beaches and the somewhat tricky access to the sea make this place not so great for those who can’t swim that well. Also, the tall cliffs and the steep paths down to the sea may not make it child-friendly, either. You have to be extra careful when you get close to the edge because it’s easy to slip; even more so at nighttime.
But if you do want to go for the sheer beauty and tranquility of this place, maybe even bring some family or friends along, the good news is that there are some neat beaches where they can chill that are not too far.
Our favorite is the long, sandy beach just north of the Shabla Lighthouse – Gog’s Beach. This is a wild beach – no sunbeds, no umbrellas, no amenities. Only a handful of people at most, even on August weekends. The beach is quite long, so if you want to truly feel like you’re all by yourself, simply walk a little farther.
There are several other sandy beaches north of Shabla, but we really didn’t see the point of driving that far when we had this huge, almost deserted beach all to ourselves.
South of Kamen Bryag, the first sandy beach is Rusalka. This is a touristy place, with two beaches – a public one and a private beach. This place has a large parking area, restaurants, and shops, and it can get crowded. Luckily, there are several smaller and less crowded beaches nearby.
South of Rusalka, Bolata Beach is another wild beach, small, sandy, and welcoming. There are two breakwaters, one on each side of the beach, which protect the place from big waves. It can get a bit crowded in summer, but there’s enough room for everyone.
Where to stay
As I said before, Kamen Bryag is a dirtbag-friendly place. Even though wild camping is not officially allowed in Bulgaria, in this particular place, inconspicuous camping is tolerated. In summer, you’ll undoubtedly see tents on the plateau between the village and the sea. Even though it’s close to the village and you can easily walk to the shop and taverns, it still feels like you’re at the edge of the world.
On the other hand, some parts of Tyulenovo’s coastline are natural reserves, and camping is forbidden there. To this end, there’s a dedicated camping area just south of the village, without any amenities and free of charge.
Accommodation options in Kamen Bryag are a bit limited, but you’ll find some hotels and guesthouses in Tyulenovo, as well as a few restaurants.
Getting around
There is an ATM in Shabla, which comes in handy because most places here don’t accept credit cards. Shabla also has a well-stocked supermarket.
There are some local buses operating between Kavarna and Shabla. Unfortunately, there’s no public transport from Shabla to Tyulenovo and Kamen Bryag. It’s a 12-kilometer drive from the center of Shabla to Tyulenovo; you can try to hitchhike, but these roads don’t see much traffic. Therefore, it’s best to drive here. Alternatively, you can ride a bike.
There’s no freshwater source, so make sure you’re well-stocked on those hot summer days.
What else can you do on Bulgaria’s northern coast?
You mean besides swimming, diving, climbing, cliff jumping, kayaking, SUP, eating seafood, and spending the evenings under a canopy of a billion stars? If that still isn’t enough, you can visit the surroundings.
For example, Shabla Lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse on Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast and Cape Shabla is the country’s easternmost point.
Then, there’s the path along the coastline, just above the cliffs. You can walk between Kamen Bryag and Tyulenovo, or between Kamen Bryag and Yaylata, and even farther. You’ll get to see the many oil tanks around Tyulenovo, as this is an oil field, which makes for some interesting pics. Furthermore, you can explore the large cave dwellings south of Tyulenovo, all accessible via a (barely visible) path.
You can follow the path south of Kamen Bryag all the way to Yaylata, walking on top of 60-meter cliffs. Yaylata National Archaeological Reserve is a spectacular place with an ancient cave “city” of 100+cave dwellings, three necropolises with family stone tombs dating from the 5th century BC, a Thracian sanctuary, sacrificial stones, even an ancient winery, and a Byzantine citadel. Several thousand years of history can be traced back here.
Pssst…there’s a splendid little cove under the Byzantine citadel, with large pebbles and crystal-clear water, just perfect for a spectacular dip next to these remnants from the days of yore.
This part of the coastline is a haven for birdwatchers, too. More than 50 bird species nest at Yaylata. In fact, Via Pontica passes through here, the famous route for migratory birds. There are also species of rare and threatened plants.
Further south, Cape Kaliakra is a huge promontory, almost two kilometers long, rising 60-70 meters above the sea on sheer cliffs. A nature and archaeological reserve, Cape Kaliakra also has a fortress, ancient walls, and cave dwellings.
Following the coast from Cape Kaliakra to Kavarna, you’ll find the Dalboka mussel farm, with a terraced restaurant perched over the Black Sea, where you can sample a variety of mussel dishes and other types of seafood.
Further south, the seaside resort of Balchik is famous for its Queen Mary’s Castle and Botanical Garden, ethnographic museum, nice beaches, lovely promenade, and delicious seafood.
